This glossary covers eight ingredients you will often see on skincare labels. Each entry explains what the ingredient is, what to check on the label and how it is usually fitted into a routine. It is general information to help you read a label, not a promise about any particular product.
How to use this glossary
- An ingredient name does not tell you the concentration, the rest of the formula or how the finished product was tested. Compare the actual product you are considering.
- Introduce one new product at a time, so you can tell which one your skin is reacting to.
- The directions printed on the product always take priority over a general habit described here.
- For a persistent or changing skin concern, speak with a pharmacist or dermatologist and bring the packaging with you.
Ceramides
What it is: ceramides are lipids that make up a significant part of the skin’s outer barrier. The ceramides used in skincare are manufactured to resemble the ones the skin already contains.
On the label: codes such as ceramide NP, AP or EOP refer to specific ceramide types. Moisturisers often combine them with cholesterol and fatty acids, and the overall combination matters more than any single one.
In a routine: usually found in daily moisturisers, night creams and some gentle cleansers. Ceramide products are about the skin barrier, not about treating breakouts. Choose the texture, from light lotion to rich balm, to suit your skin type and climate.
Hyaluronic acid
What it is: a humectant. It draws in and holds onto water rather than adding oil, and is one of the moisturiser ingredients identified in the American Academy of Dermatology’s guidance.
On the label: some products mention several molecular weights, meaning differently sized hyaluronic acid molecules. The finished formula and directions matter more than this detail. Topical hyaluronic acid is unrelated to injectable fillers.
In a routine: often applied to slightly damp skin and followed by a moisturiser, especially in dry climates. It is generally considered low-irritation on its own, though fragrance or other ingredients in the same product can still cause a reaction.
Niacinamide
What it is: a form of vitamin B3 used across moisturisers, serums and other products, generally discussed in relation to the skin’s appearance and comfort.
On the label: products vary in the percentage listed, and a higher percentage is not automatically better tolerated. Packaging descriptions such as pore appearance or even-looking tone are cosmetic descriptions, not claims about treating a condition.
In a routine: commonly used morning and evening and generally considered easy to combine with other ingredients, including modern vitamin C products. A few people notice temporary flushing or tingling; stop and ask a pharmacist if it persists.
Peptides
What it is: a broad category, not one ingredient. Hundreds of different peptide sequences are used in skincare, differing in size, stability and purpose.
On the label: look for the specific name, such as copper peptides or palmitoyl tripeptide-1, rather than a marketing term like “peptide complex”. Much of what is published concerns isolated ingredients in the laboratory, not the finished cream on the shelf.
In a routine: usually included in serums and creams alongside other ingredients. Some peptides are sensitive to heat, light and air, so opaque or airless packaging helps.
Retinol
What it is: an over-the-counter member of the retinoid family, generally considered gentler than prescription retinoids, though still an active ingredient.
On the label: retinol is sold in a range of percentages, and the formulation (for example, encapsulated or stabilised) can affect tolerance as much as the percentage itself.
In a routine: usually used at night, starting every second or third night and increasing gradually, with daily sunscreen the next morning. Avoid stacking several exfoliating products on the same night. If you are pregnant, planning pregnancy or using prescription skin treatments, ask a qualified clinician before starting a retinoid.
Salicylic acid
What it is: a beta hydroxy acid (BHA). It is oil-soluble, which is why it is often associated with routines for oily or congested skin. Alpha hydroxy acids such as glycolic acid are water-soluble and behave differently.
On the label: over-the-counter products sit within a modest percentage range. A rinse-off cleanser and a leave-on product are different uses, so read the directions for the product in front of you.
In a routine: many products are designed for a few uses a week. Take extra care if your skin is dry or sensitised or you already use other acids or retinoids, and wear sunscreen during the day. Persistent acne is better assessed by a dermatologist.
Squalane
What it is: an emollient. It is a stable, saturated form of squalene, a lipid the skin already produces, and is now commonly derived from plants such as olives or sugarcane.
On the label: squalane and squalene are different words. If plant origin matters to you, ask for a sourcing statement for the actual product rather than assuming it from the name.
In a routine: a lightweight oil layered after water-based serums and before a heavier cream, or used on its own as a face oil. It softens the skin’s surface; it is not described here as a treatment for acne or pigmentation. Patch test any new oil.
Vitamin C
What it is: an antioxidant that the American Academy of Dermatology discusses among ingredients used for the appearance of ageing skin and dark spots. This does not establish how any particular product performs.
On the label: it appears under several names, such as ascorbic acid or sodium ascorbyl phosphate, which differ in stability and in how they feel on sensitive skin. A serum that turns amber or brown has likely oxidised.
In a routine: commonly applied in the morning to clean, dry skin before heavier creams, alongside daily sunscreen and never as a substitute for it. Dark glass or airtight packaging helps protect it from light, air and heat.
